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How external wall insulation works

Board on the outside, a reinforced coat over it, and a finish that keeps the weather out.

Section through a solid brick wall with external wall insulation A solid brick wall with, on its outside face, adhesive, an insulation board held by a fixing, a reinforced basecoat and a finish coat. The system starts on a base track above the damp-proof course, and a deeper sill sits over the window opening. INSULATION SOLID BRICK WALL DPC Adhesive Deeper sill Fixing through board Insulation board Basecoat and mesh Finish coat Base track above DPC
Detail: EWI on solid brickNot to scale

Layer by layer

  1. Prepare the wall

    Loose render off, cracks repaired, damp dealt with.

  2. Base track

    Fixed above the damp-proof course to start the system level and dry.

  3. Board and adhesive

    Boards bonded with no gaps behind, laid staggered like brickwork.

  4. Fixings

    Mechanical fixings through each board into the wall.

  5. Basecoat and mesh

    A reinforced layer over everything, extra mesh at the corners of openings.

  6. Finish

    Render or brick slips in your chosen colour.

Board specification

We recommend one after the survey. Your quote names it and gives the reason.

BoardProsConsTypical use in London
EPSLight, easy to cut, good valueCombustibleRear and flank walls away from boundaries
Mineral woolNon-combustible, vapour open, helps with soundThicker and heavierWalls near boundaries, old solid brick
PhenolicHighest performance for its thicknessHigher costNarrow side returns, tight reveals
Wood fibreVery breathable, naturalThicker for the same performanceOlder walls prone to damp

Where the care goes

Insulation fails at its edges. These details decide how well the whole system works.

  • Reveals insulated so window edges do not stay cold
  • Corners wrapped continuously, no gaps between boards
  • Base track above the damp-proof course, plinth detail below
  • Eaves or verges extended if the roof would not cover the new wall
  • Deeper sills that drip clear of the new face
  • Flues, vents and pipes extended out to the new surface
Gable wall in grey basecoat with three lifts of scaffolding

From survey to scaffold down

  1. Survey

    Walls, damp course, roof edge, sills, flues, boundaries, planning and access.

  2. Written quote

    Board, thickness, finish, scaffold and expected dates.

  3. Licences and bookings

    Pavement scaffold licence, parking suspension and any gas engineer visit for flues.

  4. Scaffold and preparation

    Scaffold up, fittings off, wall repaired and protected.

  5. Insulation and basecoat

    Track, boards, fixings and reinforced basecoat.

  6. Finish and refit

    Finish coat or brick slips, then sills, pipes and fittings back on.

  7. Clear

    Scaffold down and the site left clean.

Technical questions

How thick will the insulation be?

That depends on the board and on the performance the wall has to reach under Building Regulations. On a house it is often somewhere around 60 to 120 millimetres, plus the basecoat and finish. The exact figure is on your quote.

Which board will you use?

It depends on the wall. EPS is light and good value. Mineral wool is non-combustible and lets moisture through, which matters near boundaries and on old walls. Phenolic is thinnest for its performance, which helps in tight spots. Wood fibre is very breathable.

Can old solid brick still breathe?

It should. Old solid walls dry out through their faces, so on those we use vapour-open boards and finishes that let moisture escape rather than trapping it.

What about cold spots around windows?

Reveals get a thinner board so frames are not buried, which stops them becoming cold strips. New, deeper sills go on so water still drips clear.

What about taller buildings?

The rules on external wall materials are much stricter for taller residential buildings. Tell us the height of the building at the start so the right materials and route are considered.

Ask about your walls

Tell us about the property.

Call 020 3996 0973Book a survey